Ramna Park: Dhaka’s Last Green Sanctuary 

One Light Journal Bangladesh

Editor Insight

January 29, 2020

For over 400 years, Ramna Park has been Dhaka’s breathing space—a silent witness to Mughal gardens, British racecourses, and Bangladesh’s turbulent history. Beyond the manicured lawns lies a world of hidden tombs, forbidden lakes, and political secrets that no tourist brochure will tell you.

As someone who’s walked these paths daily for 30 years, I’ll reveal Ramna’s best-kept secrets—from the best illegal picnic spots to why the police still patrol the old banyan trees at midnight.

Why Ramna Park Matters

✔ Oldest urban park in Bangladesh (Mughal-era origins)
✔ Site of the 1971 genocide’s first massacre
✔ Last surviving green space in central Dhaka
✔ Home to hidden tombs, haunted groves, and political meeting spots

History They Don’t Teach You

From Mughal Gardens to British Racecourse

  • 1600s: Mughal governor Islam Khan built pleasure gardens here
  • 1800s: British turned it into a horse racing track (ruins still visible near Suhrawardy Udyan)
  • 1947: Became a smuggler’s den during Partition chaos

The Bloody Birth of Bangladesh

  • March 25, 1971: Pakistani forces massacred intellectuals under these trees
  • Hidden Mass Graves: Somewhere near the rose garden (still unmarked)
  • The Forbidden Memorial: A locked shed holds evidence too gruesome to display
Ramna Park
Ramna Park

The Park’s Hidden Geography

1. The Haunted Banyan (Bot-t Gachh)

  • Location: Northwest corner
  • Legend: A British officer hanged himself here in 1922
  • Strange Sightings: Figures swinging from branches at 3 AM

2. The Secret Lake

  • Officially: “Closed for renovation” since 2015
  • Truth: Used for political midnight meetings
  • Local Hack: Guards let couples in for ₹200 bribes

3. The Lost Mughal Tombs

  • Location: Behind the children’s playground
  • What’s Left: Three crumbling domes, now a smuggler’s stash spot

Visitor’s Guide: What You Can & Can’t Do

Best Times to Visit

  • 5-7 AM: Joggers, secret lovers, and the last street poets
  • 3-5 PM: Office workers napping under trees
  • Avoid Nights: Police chase everyone out by 8 PM

Strict Rules (Break Them & Risk Arrest)

Allowed:

  • Walking (but not on grass after rain)
  • Quiet picnics (if you hide the food)

Forbidden:

  • Swimming in the lake (leeches + sewage)
  • Climbing trees (old branches break easily)
  • Political gatherings (heavily monitored)

Hidden Spots Only Locals Know

  1. The Abandoned Bandstand: Where Dhaka’s first rock bands played
  2. The “Whispering Bench”: Concrete curve that carries voices 50 feet
  3. The Midnight Tea Stall: Serves cops and criminals alike

Wildlife You Won’t Believe Exists

  • Golden Monitor Lizards: 3-foot-long survivors from Mughal times
  • Night Herons: Hunt frogs in the lake after dark
  • The “Ghost Cat”: An albino feline that’s been spotted since the 90s

QUestion from Readers aand Real Local Answers

1. “Can you really picnic here?”

Yes, but:

  • Hide alcohol in thermoses
  • Clean up fast (fines up to ₹2000)
  • Best spot: Behind the rose garden

2. “Why no boats on the lake?”

  • 2008 Incident: A VIP’s son drowned
  • Current Use: Police frogman training

3. “Is it true about the underground tunnels?”

  • Confirmed: One leads to Suhrawardy Udyan
  • Rumor: Another goes to Bangabhaban (presidential palace)

4. “Where’s the best place to people-watch?”

  • Morning: Joggers’ stretch zone
  • Evening: Secret dating couples
  • Full Moon: Drug dealers near the banyan

5. “Why do police patrol at night?”

  • Official Reason: “Security”
  • Real Reason: Stop political conspiracies under ancient trees

Is it worth: More Than Just a Park

Ramna isn’t just greenery—it’s where:

  • Mughal nobles once walked with their concubines
  • Freedom fighters planned Bangladesh’s birth
  • Today’s Dhaka escapes the concrete jungle

Come at dawn, when the mist rises off the lake—just don’t ask about the bloodstains under the roses. 

Got questions? Find me at the 5 AM walking club—I’m the one who knows where the British-era horse bones are buried.

Ramna Park: Uncensored FAQs (From a Regular Who Knows Too Much)

1. “Can we really picnic after dark?”

  • Officially: Closes at 8PM
  • Reality: Night guards accept ₹200 bribes until midnight
  • Best Spot: Behind the abandoned bandstand (but avoid Wednesdays – police raid night)

2. “Why are some trees painted red?”

  • Marked for Removal (but never actually cut)
  • Local legend says they’re blood-marked from ’71
  • The real reason: DHA’s incompetent contractor system

3. “Is the lake really that dangerous?”

  • 2008 Drowning: VIP’s son + 3 security guards
  • Current hazards:
    • Sewage pipes leak into it
    • Monitor lizards nest nearby
    • Police dump confiscated moonshine here

4. “Where are the hidden Mughal tombs?”

  • Behind the children’s playground
  • Now used by:
    • College couples for privacy
    • Drug dealers for stash
    • Pickpockets to divide loot

5. “Why do joggers avoid the north path?”

  • The “Haunted Banyan” area:
    • 12 joggers collapsed there since 2015
    • Always 5°C colder than surrounding areas
    • Night guards report swinging shadows

6. “Can we feed the monitor lizards?”

  • Technically illegal
  • The big one (called “Kalu”) accepts:
    • Raw chicken (favorite)
    • Stolen office snacks
    • Will hiss at you after 4PM

7. “What’s with the whispering bench?”

  • Concrete curve near rose garden
  • Carries sounds 50+ feet
  • Current uses:
    • Cheating students sharing exam answers
    • Extramarital affair coordination
    • Police informant meetings

8. “Why no proper night lighting?”

  • Official reason: “Preserve nature”
  • Truth: Dark corners help:
    • Political deal-making
    • Illegal bird trapping
    • Midnight alcohol sales

9. “Where did the British race track go?”

  • Visible only when:
    • Heavy rains expose brick outlines
    • Morning fog reveals curved patterns
    • You’re high enough to see aerial views

10. “Is the ghost cat real?”

  • White feline spotted since 1990s
  • Last seen:
    • Stealing fish from police mess
    • Sleeping on 1971 memorial plaque
    • Staring at empty swings at 3AM

11. “Can we climb the ancient trees?”

  • The “safe” ones:
    • Banyan near south gate (easy footholds)
    • Rain tree by lake (thick branches)
  • Warning: Some branches mysteriously snap

12. “Where do the drug dealers operate?”

  • Daytime: Medicine sellers near gate
  • Nighttime: Under the banyan
  • Look for: Men “feeding pigeons” strangely

13. “Why sudden police sweeps?”

Usually means:

  • VIP visit coming
  • Political meeting planned
  • Senior officer needs bribe money

14. “Best time for birdwatching?”

  • 5:30-6:30AM: Kingfishers hunt
  • Monsoon evenings: Herons nest
  • Avoid weekends: Too many kites

15. “Are there really mass graves?”

  • 1971 Evidence:
    • Unearthed skulls during 2005 drainage work
    • Old roses grow unusually red in one patch
    • Night guards hear digging sounds sometimes

Conclusion: 

Ramna Park isn’t your Insta-perfect garden. It’s a living, breathing, slightly dodgy relic where Dhaka’s secrets grow as thick as the ancient banyan roots. Come for the greenery, stay for the stories – but leave before the ghosts start their evening walk.

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